Baltimore: A Seaport and City of Neighborhoods

We arrived in Baltimore late Saturday afternoon and went right to our hotel, a Sleep Inn and Suites, just about 10 blocks north of Little Italy and Fells Point. Now I have to admit that I did not know a whole lot about Baltimore prior to our visit. I knew that it was home to the Ravens, I had heard of Camden Yards, I remembered listening to information about the recent riots on the news, and I figured that it was a previously industrial area.

After checking into the hotel and staying just long enough to freshen up, we left to walk towards food.

It was about this time that I started observing activity on the street. There were numerous tents erected off the street next to the highway, and quite a few people out walking around with carts and belongings. Ryan mentioned that the lot next to the hotel used to be a tent city of sorts, but when we passed, we noticed that it was now more of a park with gravel, some landscaping, and benches. Just down the street we observed a Health Care for the Homeless and after a quick Google Maps search, it is evident that numerous resources for the homeless seem to be concentrated in this area. I am not sure of the homeless situation in Baltimore but it looks like the city has numerous services to offer and I can honestly say that I never felt threatened or perceived any danger or problems staying at the hotel.

We walked through the row houses and brick industrial buildings. Personally, I love this older look for a city and was shocked to find out that over 1,500 buildings were destroyed by fire in 1904. Although the destruction allowed for a fresh start, I can't help but wish that more historic structures were spared. After walking for 30 minutes, hanger started to creep up on me. It reared its ugly head when we were told it would be a hour wait for a table at Ryan's first choice of restaurant (which also happened to be the farthest restaurant away, I might add). Luckily the short blocks are filled with restaurants and we got a table immediately at The Waterfront Hotel. We had a few beers and a delicious dinner with local friends before heading out for round two of drinks as the band was getting set up downstairs. I highly recommend the BBQ Brussels sprouts. I had a whole bowl! The best sprouts I have ever eaten!

Sunday

We enjoyed a lazy morning and late check out of our hotel. Our day began around noon with a fantastic brunch back near the Fells Point area. I enjoyed sitting in the courtyard patio under a very blue sky while dining on a seafood scramble. Then we made our way around the piers. Previously neglected abandoned warehouses, the Inner Harbor area has come a long way in redevelopment. We strolled through the somewhat gentrified area towards the Historic Ships. I must admit that I was a little turned off by the gaudy tourist attractions that can be found in so many cities (Ripley's Believe it or not, Hard Rock Cafe, etc.). But it is important to consider that I have a distaste for chains and corporate entertainment. We considered the aquarium but decided to pass after we learned of the high entrance fees and read reviews that Chicago's aquarium was better. We did however, tour two of the four historic ships (a submarine and 1800 merchant sailing ship).
Then we walked north through downtown to the nation's first cathedral: Basilica of the National Shrine of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. I have visited many, many churches in Europe so it was an interesting experience to check out a historic church in the U.S. This church still hosts numerous services and one was about to start so we were quick inside. I bypassed the confession line and walked to the front to take a look at the massive pipe organ to the left. Part of me wished that we could stay just so I could hear the organ played.

By this point we were running out of time and once again we had sore feet...so we booked it back to the hotel, retrieved our luggage, and called an Uber for a quick beer and snack at The Brewers Art. Absolutely awesome place! Unique dishes and Belgian style beer in a historic building. I can't ask for more.

Side note on Uber: I really enjoyed our experiences in Baltimore. The drivers were very conversational and I feel like I got a personal experience visiting the city.

After walking around the center of Baltimore for a bit, observing activity on the street, and speaking with a few locals, I feel like I know a little more. One Uber driver highlighted the challenge of local problems making national news. The media has a way of picking up on the negative in a city and broadcasting it. It makes me wonder how different perceptions would be if we heard good stories too: uplifting and motivational stories of people changing their community, stories of successful independent businesses, stories that give hope for a community challenged with high unemployment and homelessness, stories of people breaking down barriers, etc. I would rather my perceptions of places be shaped by these stories.

A Quick Trip to the Nation's Capital

Well, I want to get back to blogging (partially as a productive use of my time that allows me to avoid thesis writing). The most significant thing that has changed since my last post is that I decided to continue my education and am currently in my last semester of graduate school at Michigan State University. I am earning a Masters in Urban and Regional Planning. So...forewarning...future posts may have an urban planning or urban planning related focus. Get excited! I sure am.

This past weekend, I visited Washington DC for the first time. Other than a big of time spent in central North Carolina, this trip was also my first East Coast experience.

Old Ebbitt Grill Bar

Old Post Office Pavilion

We arrived late Thursday evening by plane and took the Metro to Arlington, VA to stay with a friend. My impression of the Virginia Square area: very young, mobile and swanky.

- The metro stop has covered bike lockers for rent and bikes available for the bike share program. The blocks are short and pedestrian friendly.
- The immediate area is mostly high rise condos and apartments.
- I only saw young professionals on the streets.
- The Clarendon area has a full block of restaurants and clubs that are packed on a weekend evening.
- The apartment building where we stayed reminds me of a dorm or residence hall except that it is geared towards young professionals. There are common areas that look like lounges, a coffee machine and vending machine can be found in the hallways, there is a billiard and ping pong room and a video game room, and everything is stylish and modern.

Friday we went to DC proper to explore. Surprise, surprise...I had an itinerary.

1. Unfortunately we spent the first 70 minutes standing on a Metro train. The ride, which should have taken 25 minutes, kept stopping due to traffic control issues and possibly an inexperienced driver.

Union Station

2. Once downtown, we walked to the White House for a quick picture. In all honesty, the building is smaller than I thought. Only after we walked around to the other side of the park did I realize that we stopped at the north entrance first. The image that is more commonly shown is the south entrance which has more dense greenery on both sides of the house. I think the south entrance with the rounded front is a bit of an illusion because you can't see the sides of the house through the greenery, thus making it appear larger than it actually is. Not sure if this is intentional...

3. Also, there was a lot of security everywhere. Not sure if there is always this much security or if it was increased due to the date. We were in DC on September 11.

4. We stopped in the Old Ebbitt Grill for a quick peek. It was founded in 1856 and is Washington's oldest saloon. I think it is a really neat place with a lot of character. The menu is appealing and decently priced considering the location, but since we weren't ready for lunch yet we did not dine in.

5. We strolled through the South Lawn, President's Park, The Ellipse, to the Washington Monument, National WWII Memorial, and Lincoln Memorial.
While we walked I noticed the large amount of cars parked on the streets through this area. They lined both sides and it seemed impossible to be able to pass with traffic in both directions. I was pretty surprised that there was either no underground parking or not enough of it considering the amount of people in the city during the day.

6. We continued to stroll around the area. I have to say that I love the architecture in DC. The cement buildings, columns, modest building height, ornate lanterns, and facade design are very appealing. No where else in the US looks like DC.

7. I read online that visitors can get a great (free) view of the city from the Old Post Office Pavilion so we headed that way next. Unfortunately I had not done all of my research because to my dismay, the building was closed during renovations to become a Trump luxury hotel. According to a NY Times article, visitors will again be able to take an elevator up in the tower when the building reopens in 2016. (I don't want to make this political, but I was not thrilled to see Trump's giant name on the building).

8. For lunch we dined at Capitol City Brewing Company. Believe it or not, the chicken tenders were absolutely fantastic. Something about the flavorful batter and perfectly fried massive chicken tenders dipped in delicious honey mustard really hits the spot.


9. Then we continued to the Capitol Building and checked out the visitors center. It is free and as long as you don't mind going through airport level security to enter, it is worth a quick visit.

10. Finally we walked to Union Station and grabbed a Metro for our sore and tired feet. FYI, everything seems close but it is not. It is very spread out and we probably walked 6-8 miles by this point.

10. We departed the Metro at Dupont Circle to stroll around the neighborhood and historic district rowhouses and international embassies.

11. We grabbed a coffee/iced tea from Jolt n Bolt and then a rooftop beer during happy hour at Rebellion. I highly recommend both!

Notes:

- Nearly everyone in DC is well dressed. Very well dressed, perfectly altered suits and fashionable dresses. Perception is everything.

- There are not many bike lanes at all, even though people are on the street riding bikes. I only found one bike lane but it was done well. The lane was colored, marked, protected, and considered truck stopping and loading.

Dupont Circle Park Bench

- I love the idea of the Dupont Circle Park bench. It is a continuous circle. And people were sitting on it next to strangers. Something about the continuity breaks social awkwardness barriers.

Coming Next...Baltimore