We arrived in Baltimore late Saturday afternoon and went right to our hotel, a Sleep Inn and Suites, just about 10 blocks north of Little Italy and Fells Point. Now I have to admit that I did not know a whole lot about Baltimore prior to our visit. I knew that it was home to the Ravens, I had heard of Camden Yards, I remembered listening to information about the recent riots on the news, and I figured that it was a previously industrial area.
After checking into the hotel and staying just long enough to freshen up, we left to walk towards food.
It was about this time that I started observing activity on the street. There were numerous tents erected off the street next to the highway, and quite a few people out walking around with carts and belongings. Ryan mentioned that the lot next to the hotel used to be a tent city of sorts, but when we passed, we noticed that it was now more of a park with gravel, some landscaping, and benches. Just down the street we observed a Health Care for the Homeless and after a quick Google Maps search, it is evident that numerous resources for the homeless seem to be concentrated in this area. I am not sure of the homeless situation in Baltimore but it looks like the city has numerous services to offer and I can honestly say that I never felt threatened or perceived any danger or problems staying at the hotel.
We walked through the row houses and brick industrial buildings. Personally, I love this older look for a city and was shocked to find out that over 1,500 buildings were destroyed by fire in 1904. Although the destruction allowed for a fresh start, I can't help but wish that more historic structures were spared. After walking for 30 minutes, hanger started to creep up on me. It reared its ugly head when we were told it would be a hour wait for a table at Ryan's first choice of restaurant (which also happened to be the farthest restaurant away, I might add). Luckily the short blocks are filled with restaurants and we got a table immediately at The Waterfront Hotel. We had a few beers and a delicious dinner with local friends before heading out for round two of drinks as the band was getting set up downstairs. I highly recommend the BBQ Brussels sprouts. I had a whole bowl! The best sprouts I have ever eaten!
Sunday
We enjoyed a lazy morning and late check out of our hotel. Our day began around noon with a fantastic brunch back near the Fells Point area. I enjoyed sitting in the courtyard patio under a very blue sky while dining on a seafood scramble. Then we made our way around the piers. Previously neglected abandoned warehouses, the Inner Harbor area has come a long way in redevelopment. We strolled through the somewhat gentrified area towards the Historic Ships. I must admit that I was a little turned off by the gaudy tourist attractions that can be found in so many cities (Ripley's Believe it or not, Hard Rock Cafe, etc.). But it is important to consider that I have a distaste for chains and corporate entertainment. We considered the aquarium but decided to pass after we learned of the high entrance fees and read reviews that Chicago's aquarium was better. We did however, tour two of the four historic ships (a submarine and 1800 merchant sailing ship).
Then we walked north through downtown to the nation's first cathedral: Basilica of the National Shrine of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. I have visited many, many churches in Europe so it was an interesting experience to check out a historic church in the U.S. This church still hosts numerous services and one was about to start so we were quick inside. I bypassed the confession line and walked to the front to take a look at the massive pipe organ to the left. Part of me wished that we could stay just so I could hear the organ played.
By this point we were running out of time and once again we had sore feet...so we booked it back to the hotel, retrieved our luggage, and called an Uber for a quick beer and snack at The Brewers Art. Absolutely awesome place! Unique dishes and Belgian style beer in a historic building. I can't ask for more.
Side note on Uber: I really enjoyed our experiences in Baltimore. The drivers were very conversational and I feel like I got a personal experience visiting the city.
After walking around the center of Baltimore for a bit, observing activity on the street, and speaking with a few locals, I feel like I know a little more. One Uber driver highlighted the challenge of local problems making national news. The media has a way of picking up on the negative in a city and broadcasting it. It makes me wonder how different perceptions would be if we heard good stories too: uplifting and motivational stories of people changing their community, stories of successful independent businesses, stories that give hope for a community challenged with high unemployment and homelessness, stories of people breaking down barriers, etc. I would rather my perceptions of places be shaped by these stories.
Welcome!
In my opinion, the meaning of life is to find happiness. Sources of my happiness include bike rides, exploring cities by foot, delicious craft beer, tasty edible treats, festivals, events, celebrations, people, and culture. This blog began as a way to share my adventures with family and friends when I lived in Germany for six months. When I returned to the US, I realized that I still love to explore and there are plenty of opportunities for bike riding, beer drinking, eating, and celebrating here too. So my adventure continues...
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